Gran Hotel Mas D’en Bruno Relais & Chateaux Review: Wine and Michelin Dining in Spain
Fine wine lovers are only just discovering the Priorat region, but savvy aficionados with a nose for the good stuff have long travelled here to sample some of Spain’s best vintages. Having experienced this wonderful mountainous corner of Catalonia first-hand, it’s my new favourite destination to sip and stay, says Renate Ruge.
Inside Gran Hotel Mas D'en BrunoRelais & Châteaux : A Luxury Wine Hotel
A gardener prunes what looks like an already perfect view of manicured vineyards framed by mountain ranges. He snips wayward sprigs from olive trees prettily surrounding the blue strip of the hotel’s 25-metre infinity pool like an artist adding finishing touches to a canvas. This classy Catalonian boutique retreat, named after the original 18th-century estate owner, is set in a terracotta-hued masia (farmhouse) dating back to 1797 that glows under the late afternoon sun. Thoughtfully restored, the hotel blends rustic original features with modern comforts for a luxurious stay where you can pick local Cariñena grapes straight from the vine.
Where Is Grand Hotel Mas D’en Bruno? Exploring Spain’s Priorat Wine Region
The hotel sits within the Clos de l’Obac vineyard estate, about 90 minutes southwest of Barcelona, an hour from Tarragona and 45 minutes from Reus. In this rugged nook of Catalonia, 12th-century monks built the first Carthusian monastery in the Iberian Peninsula in the shadow of the Sierra de Montsant, calling it Cartuja de Escaladei, “stairway to God”. The clue is in the name as getting here means climbing slalom-like roads through increasingly high mountain passes.
On the map, the roads scribble around verdant vineyards producing ruby Priorat wines – alongside Rioja, Spain’s only Denominación de Origen Calificada, the country’s highest classification. Llicorella slate soils help produce powerful, earthy wines built around indigenous Garnatxa (Grenache) and Cariñena (Carignan), alongside international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.
Sleek and seductive, this intimate resort has 24 suites and the Relais & Châteaux crest. Inside, rich woods, red marble and glazed fireplaces set the tone for relaxation, with reading nooks and in-room libraries stacked even around a huge wheel at the entrance. Soaking up the sun by the infinity pool, with cushioned loungers on one side and shaded cabanas (hireable for the day) on the other, is blissful. You could hear a pin drop. As hotel ambassador Francesc Baudilia Guerrerois says: “You quickly get used to the sheer peacefulness of the area.” (He’s also on call to snag reservations at hard-to-get spots via his Priorat winemaker connections.)
Inside the Luxury Suites at Gran Hotel Mas D'en Bruno Relais & Chateaux , Priorat
Suites open to a living room with a chaise longue surrounded by shelves of coffee table books, perfect for idling an afternoon away flipping through their pages. The bar, more ‘maxi’ than ‘mini,’ stocks a selection of spirits and premium inky-hued Priorat wines.
Large beds, taupe textiles, self-opening drapes, double-sided fireplaces and wooden accents create a cosy feel. Freestanding baths sit in expansive bathrooms with walk-in showers and French toiletries from perfume house Eight & Bob.
Dining at Gran Hotel Mas D'en Bruno Relais & Chateaux : Catalan Cuisine and Priorat Wine
Bistro Tarraco is the place for light bites, its suntrap terrace serving chilled goblets of G&T, local wine and snacks to poolside loungers. Inside, over cooling terracotta floor tiles, fresh Mediterranean dishes include a Cambrils shrimp hotdog-style sandwich with lemony mayonnaise, and an heirloom tomato salad, best paired with a chilled Pla dels Àngels rosado from Scala Dei, plucked from the cellar below.
Vinum at Gran Hotel Mas D'en Bruno Relais & Chateaux : Michelin-Listed Dining in Priorat
Vinum is listed in the Michelin Guide, with dinner served on the terrace beneath an arbor of twisted vines. The tasting menu, created by Tarragona-area head chef Josep Queralt, is thoughtfully paired by chief sommelier Susana Gámez Segovia. Passionate about the region’s riches, Queralt uses DOP Siurana extra virgin olive oil, Bellmunt del Priorat requesón, Balfegó bluefin tuna, Reus toasted hazelnuts and Priorat red vermouth; bread and desserts are all made in-house.
Having first learned to cook in both of his grandmothers’ kitchens, Queralt brings emotional memory and nostalgic touches to a menu rooted in Catalan tradition, reviving dishes like escabeche and the fisherman’s stew cim i tomba. Snacks arrive on a whimsical tree stand. Highlights of dishes that follow, include Cambrils prawn in a buttery sauce with a local white Vall Llach Horta Colomer from nearby Porrera, seared red tuna, and civet de jabalí (wild boar stew) with beetroot romesco and homemade brioche. Menus shift with the seasons and happily ours closed with Menjar Blanc, a Marcona almond cream with peach textures, paired with a glass of Simfonia en Dolç, its stone-fruit and honeyed notes a perfect mirror. The finale: a chocolate ‘ingot’ with carob, thyme, tonka bean and berry pouring sauce, alongside a sultry pour of Dolç de l’Obac.
The Spa at Gran Hotel Mas D'en Bruno Relais & Chateaux : Wine Therapy and Thermal Experiences
Tucked into the Mas’s ancient olive oil and wine mill, the spa’s cushioned chairs sit on a wooden deck around the old wine press. Natural stone walls and deep red, copper-accented tiles frame a temple of calm. Dip into hot and cold pools and take a thermal journey through the Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room. Two treatment rooms (one for couples) use Barcelona skincare brand Foosh, and wine therapy is on offer too. For a romantic escape, the whole spa can be booked privately.
Cool extras: hiring the electric racing-green mini is a highlight for zipping around the wine region in style. The scenery is equally suited to mountain biking and hiking.
Mindful of its setting near the Serra de Montsant, the hotel sources hyper-locally, conserves energy and water, and offers EV and e-bike charging (with bikes available to borrow or hire).
The area
Priorat is a land of hills threaded with vineyards and valleys, cascading down to the banks of the Siurana River — an ideal base for a luxurious wine immersion and total disconnection.
Monastery of Escaladei. The origins of Priorat and its name trace back here, to the Cartoixa d'Escaladei, founded by monks in the 12th century. Its Prior once served as mayor and judge of surrounding villages.
Local Wine
DO Montsant and DOQ Priorat wines owe their quality to the soil, terrain and climate of the Tarragona region. As summer fades, harvest arrives, and the pressing of the grapes is celebrated as the culmination of a year’s hard work.
Why book?
Because the wine is seductively delicious and a stay here is equally luxurious.
Renate Ruge
Renate is a specialist in quality content creation in the travel and lifestyle space. A highly experienced and well-travelled freelance editor and journalist, she has excellent publishing credentials and an international background, living and working in London, Sydney, Hong Kong, Berlin, Toronto and New York and now based in England's Ribble Valley. Previously the editor of Food and Travel and Journey magazines she specialises in travel writing and photography as a freelancer. Her work has been published in: Sainsbury’s Magazine, The Times and Sunday Times, The Telegraph, Supper, France magazine, Yorkshire Post Magazine and more.
